Friday, May 3, 2013

Viña Errazuriz

For the past year, I have been trying to figure out a way to get to Viña Errazuriz.  I know how to get there (it's not that far away) and I could have headed up there any day I really wanted to. But there was more to it than just heading up and doing the tour.  I wanted the whole experience.  The tour, the tasting, the food.  And I wanted to share it with someone else.  Actually, I had to share it with someone else because they only book tours for two or more people.  I needed to find another sucker companion for my tour.

I found them last weekend.  Actually, I didn't have to look too far as they had been squatting babysitting visiting us for the past 2 1/2 weeks.  And since it was my parents final weekend with us,we wanted to get out and explore.  And since they have been fans of the Errazuriz Seña wine for years, I didn't have arm twisting to do.  I had more trouble getting the vineyard to schedule a time.  But after 2 phone calls and about 20 back and forth emails, we were all set to go.

Early last Saturday morning we set off for the drive to the Aconcagua Valley (You may remember we made a trip there in September to see VSE).  It is located about 60 miles North of Santiago.  Not very far really but back when it was founded, it's owner was ridiculed for straying so far away from the good soil and climate near the big city.  See, back in the late 1800's almost all of the other vineyards were settled very close to the city and towards the ocean.  Not to the North and inland.  But the founder of Viña Errazuriz, Maximiano Errazuriz recognized early on that the valley has the perfect conditions for growing grapes - cool and rainy winters, followed by hot and dry summers with a moist Pacific wind blowing year 'round.  In 1870 he bought up hundreds of acres of land in a town called Panquehue (about 300 hectares to start and grew that to over 700, making him that largest vineyard in the hands of a single owner) and promised he would produce the best wine from the best land.  And he kept that promise.

In the past ten years, the vineyard's Icon wines -  Seña (in a partnership with Robert Mondavi),  Don Maximiano Founders Reserve and Chadwick - have consistently placed in the top ten in blind vertical tastings worldwide.  Most times placing in the top three and beating out the well known Châteaux LaFite-Rothschild, Châteaux Latour and Châteaux Margeaux.  In recent years they have added their newest additions - La Cumbre and Kai - into their competitive mix.  It will take time to see how well these stand up beside their other Icon wines but in the three years that the 2007 vintages of both wines have been entered in the competitions they have won some impressive awards, even beating out some of their own, more established vintages.  This vineyard has won so many awards, for their wines, for their Chief Winemaker, for their overall operation that I couldn't possibly list them all.

Arguably, Viña Errazuriz produces some of the finest wines in the world (and some of the more expensive).  But not only do they have a great product, they have an exquisite parcel of land.  And some excellent personnel.  Saxy, our guide, moved down to Chile a few years ago from California but has only been at Errazuriz for about 6 months.  The length of time made no difference.  She was well informed, easy going, and put up with some goofing around by the girls.  Though they are pretty well behaved, and asked some very good questions on this tour, they are still kids and if you give them the outdoors to play in that is exactly what they will do.

After our tour, we had a wine pairing lunch and got to taste some of their Max Reserva wines.  We did not opt for the Icon tasting because it was in addition to the lunch and we felt like we would already have enough to taste.  We did have to drive home, you know.  The lunch was four courses and everything was delicious.  Especially the wines. But when all was cleared and we had about 1/2 hour to kill before we needed to head back to Santiago we decided to order a bottle of the Kai.  And I am so glad we did.  Each of us had a small glass and took the rest home to enjoy when our palates (and minds) were clearer.  Our verdict - four thumbs up (the girls didn't get a vote or a taste).

I will chalk this up as one of the best wine tours/tastings/lunches I have had.  And I have had a few.  Now, I just need for someone else to come down and visit us so I can do it all again.

Excited to start our tour.
Our meeting spot.




A walk down to the cellar.
Their vault.  All of these bottles are sitting here, without labels, just waiting for an order.  They will get their label based on where they are being shipped.
Private dining/tasting room.  

Those vaults hold every year of each of their Icon wines.  That is a LOT of money sitting in those vaults.  Good thing they were locked up as I may have been tempted to take one or two of those Seña's...


Leading the way through the vines up to our vantage point at the top.
Half way up.

The girls stopped for a rest.  And a photo op.
Keep going girls...
MadHatter wanted to stop and say hi to Mary.
We made it!

The view

And then we had to walk all the way back down.  This time using the stairs.





Where all of the sorting, fermenting, aging and bottling takes place.  It is a gravity fed winery.
This walkway didn't freak me out at all with two little kids walking around.
We threatened to throw her in a barrel.  Yep, it had wine in it.  Yep, it was open.  Yep, this is Chile.
One of their tasting rooms.  
Our lunch table.  Look at all of those wine glasses.  4 for each person plus wine glasses.  Somehow they still make it seem uncrowded and intimate. (there were 22 glasses on that table)
B and his girls.
And then it was time to say goodbye.  But not before we gave our thanks to our great tour guide, Saxy.
MadHatter gave her a big hug and kiss, Chilean style, before we left and promised to see her soon.
Anytime, MadHatter, anytime.



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