Friday, September 14, 2012

The Other September 11

As an American, September 11 has become an iconic day.  At least since 2001.

In Chile, September 11 has been a huge {HUGE} historical day since 1973.  A full 28 years before the September 11 that happened on U.S. soil. It is now the one I call The Original. Now that I know of it.  Which was not until last year and I had someone mention to me that I shouldn't be going out that day.  I just looked at them a bit blankly and asked "why"?  Asking a Chilean why the date is so important is like asking an American why we celebrate the 4th of July.  It's a question we just assume everyone knows the answer to.

Forgive me for I am Gringa.

Chilean history was not something I studied in school (and even if I had, I would have forgotten it.  I forget all history.  Not my strong suit).  But now it is a date that I will not forget for 2 reasons.

It is a long story and if you want to read all about it click here (and then click through the links).

Long story short - the Socialist government of President Allende were overthrown by a military coup.  There are horrific images of the bombing of the Presidential Palace, the suicide of Allende and the torture of his supporters and their families.  The actions of that day were, and still are, a representation of military brutality at its worst.   In the first days after the coup d'etat, the military killed thousands of dissidents,  imprisoned over 40,000 political enemies and forced the disappearance of hundreds more.   In the years that followed, close to 200,000 people (2% of the population) fled the country and still more lived in fear, since the government not only punished it's dissidents, it punished their friends and family.

Just 2 days after the military took control of the government, they dissolved Congress and threw out the Constitution.  All political parties were abolished.  The four heads of the military branches became the new government.  Power was to rotate between the four heads but by June of the next year, Pinochet has taken control and established himself as the Supreme Chief of the Nation.  By the end of the year, he had declared himself President.  And he would remain there until Chile's return to democracy in 1990.  17 years later.

But was he a hero or a villain?  You will hear both.  During his rule, his social and economic changes took Chile into it's current prosperity.  But he was also implicated in over 300 cases of human rights violations including kidnapping, torture, and indirectly, murder.  He is an inspiration to other dictators around the world and many people right here in Chile (right wing supporters, academics, neo-nazis).  But he is an abomination to others (left wing groups, human rights supporters, family of those missing and killed during his rule).

The day means different things to different people.  Some living right next door to each other.  And when September 11 rolls around both sides take to the streets.  Some chanting "Pinochet! Pinochet!" and celebrating his life and rule. Others holding demonstrations to remember the atrocities that happened during his time in charge.  It causes a lot of friction that usually starts a fire.  Or twenty.  Literally.

That is the answer to "why?" staying off of the streets this past Tuesday was a good idea.



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