Spanglish Accent: La Vega

I was not sure who was more excited about our Sunday morning trip - me or the kids. Me, because I had been waiting for this trip into the heart of the city almost since before we arrived in Santiago or the girls (who didn't have a clue what our ultimate destination was) but were excited that they were going to get to ride on the subway. Even after the fact I can't say who enjoyed the day more.

Since we don't live in Santiago proper (our neighborhood is on the North-East side of the city) we don't have the chance, or need, to ride the subway. But it is something that the girls have wanted to do for a while now. Ever since they found out there was a train "like the one at the airport by Nana and Grampas". But I didn't want to just take them to ride the subway with no destination in mind. But when we decided to go to La Vega, which is located in the heart of the city and not normally a place that I would want to drive and get lost, we knew we finally had our reason. We met at our friend's house that morning and walked down to the nearest station.

The metro was bright and clean and almost empty. Everyone was on vacation after all. The system in Santiago is South America's largest. It has 5 lines that cover over 100 km (60 miles) with 108 stops. If the girls had had their way we would have taken every single line and stopped at each and every station. Instead, they got to ride 13 stops from Escuela Militar to Los Heroes. And then a line change and 3 stops to Patronato. Forty minutes of pure heaven for the girls!

They were in awe of everything!

The train dropped us right outside of our destination so we didn't have to do much walking. Just up the stairs and there it was in all of its glory.

La Vega.

La Vega is the fruit and vegetable market located in a not so nice area in Santiago. It is a Santiago institution and, more than that, it is a people watching mecca. And it's a place I have been wanting to visit since I heard about it upon our arrival. But it isn't a place that I want to bring two littles with no one to help me watch them. I am not a very paranoid person. In fact, I tend to believe the best about everyone, but I wasn't born yesterday. This place is teeming with people. Some of them not so nice. This is the type of place you don't wear your jewelry, you leave your wallet at home (or at least not in your back pocket) and you learn that you don't even want to take cell phone pictures in some parts as you will probably be without said cell in a NY minute. (I took my chances on a few quick snaps). I was not about to head down here for the first time without numbers. And one of that number would be B - someone who grew up in one of the current most dangerous cities in the world and bonus, he speaks Spanish.

And I really shouldn't have listened to the masses. It was beautiful. It was wondrous It spoke to every one of my five senses. I could smell it before I could see it. In a good way. The fruit was so fresh it still had it's umbilical vine attached. The cheeses were ripe and pungent. I could see the array of things available to me. There were so many varieties of seeds and beans and pickles that my mind was reeling. I even had my choice of pigs head and feet to boil for dinner if that is what I wanted. (It wasn't). I could touch and feel and smell and taste. I was in heaven drinking it all in. I forgot about the girls, my husband, my friends... My head was swiveling back and forth so quickly I thought that I might give myself whiplash. Nothing like a bit of whiplash to announce yourself as a tourist. In your own city.

I can't tell you how awesome it was. And I can't tell you how quickly B navigated us straight out the back door and into La Vega Chica. It's the sister market just across the street. It is cleaner, it is less crowded and it is a lot less fun. But B has a different idea of fun than I do sometimes. He lived this as a kid and doesn't like the seediness. I was experiencing it for the first time. I love the seediness. It was raw, it was real and I loved every second of it. But I think I will have to go back without him to really experience it all.

La Vega Chica is where Anthony Bourdain ate lunch when he came with his show, "No Reservations". At a little place called Carmen's. It is still there and we walked past it, fully intending to eat lunch there just as he did. And then we found a menu board in a sea of menu boards...a board that offered EV.ERY. THING. From Peruvian Lomo Saltado to the Chilean Pina Empanada. The had noodles and empanadas and pork straight off of the pig. We talked with the owner/waitress and we consulted with each other. This would do. We ordered and we sat in our assigned seats. Yes, each restaurant has assigned seats and because B wanted to order from another menu just across the way, they would have to make special accommodations for him to be able to sit with us. It made us all laugh.

And we ordered. We got empanadas and french fries for the girls. Lomo Saltado for me, Noodles for D and G got the ribs. We also got soup and salad with it all. By the time we were done it was a feast. One we couldn't even begin to finish. But we were satisfied. The food was great, the service even better and the bill...let me tell you about the bill. We ended up with 5 empanadas, 3 entrees, 3 salads, 4 soups and 2 orders of french fries. There were a few bottles of water and a liter of Coke. The bill was less than $30 US. It was a feast for our palates, the eyes and our pocketbooks. I was in love with this place.

And unfortunately our time was short. We came, we ate, we produced (bought produce) and we left. But I have plans. Plans for a date at La Vega that does not include B. Or the girls. I will savor the sight, the sounds and the people. I will live it and I will love it and I will spend next to nothing on my fruit and veggies for the week.

I. Can't. Wait.

(I snapped only a few pictures with my phone...before the security guard told me to put it away if I wanted to leave with it in my posession)