Thursday, March 28, 2013

Hace Dos Anos

{This is my first bi-lingual post.  It will be in Spanish first.  A small nod to the fact that we have now been in Chile for two years, as of today.  It is a small glimpse into what I have learned - both about this country, about myself and about this language.  When I consider that I did not speak more than a couple of words of Spanish two years ago (really, couldn't conjugate a single verb) I realize I have come a long way.  But I also know that being here for two years is a blink of an eye and that I still have so much to learn.  In more than just the language department.  It has been a journey.  Not always easy and it has not always been fun, but it has been an adventure.

The Spanish part of this post has been written off the top of my head, as are most of my posts.  I did not us a dictionary.  I did not go to Google translate. It is nothing more than my own words in Spanish.  I have not had anyone proof it so there will be mistakes.  It comes with the territory.  When I write in English I write the way I talk.  I cannot do that in Spanish because I do not know nearly as many words and my slang doesn't translate.  It wasn't easy writing this in a foreign language.  But it was much easier than trying to speak in that same language because I had all the time in the world to find the right words.  The right conjugations   And I could go back and proof it myself - not at all how it works when you are face to face in a conversation.  So don't let this bit of written prose give you the impression that my Spanish is great, or even good...

The English part is what I hope the Spanish part says. There will be some mistakes in my Spanish, so be it...there are probably a lot of mistakes in the English too...}

Hace dos años comenzamos un viaje. No fue sólo un cambia de distancia, pero un cambio de un estilo de vida. Un cambio de ubicación, seguro, pero también un cambio de actitud. Un cambio en la forma en que vivimos nuestras vidas y cómo nos relacionamos con el mundo. Empezamos una nueva vida, como una familia, en un lugar fuera de nuestra zona de confort y sabíamos que sería duro. Y luego, un poco más fácil. Y luego sería nuestra normal. Y lo ha hecho. Hemos pasado dos años y, a veces, aún parece que fue ayer.

A veces, miro atrás y lo parece como si estuviéramos sentados en nuestra casa en California, hablando de si esto sería lo mejor para nosotros, o si sería tirar todo fuera de nuestro control. (Sí, lo haría). Estábamos sentados en California, acercado de los amigos mejor, pero nos sentíamos tan solos. Debido a que la decisión de moverse más de 6000 kilómetros de su familia y amigos, la nuestra estaba solo. Nadie puede decidir por nosotros si sería mejor para mover todo y empezar de nuevo. No se movían por todo el país, sino en todo un hemisferio. Era mucho para considerar.  Había listas. Habia pros y contras. Había noches sin dormiendo. Pero al final, como todos ustedes saben, hemos tomado la decisión de moverse. Hemos convertido nuestras vidas al revés. Había razones positivas que hacer y los unicos aspectos negativos que encontramos eran nuestros propios miedos. Al final decidimos que el pro ha superado la contras. Queríamos pasar para que nuestros niños pudieran experimentar la vida en el mundo. Era hora de que mis hijas tener una idea de una vida fuera de los EE.UU. Una vida fuera del privilegio que hubiera crecido con en California. Ya era hora de que me acuerde de lo que era demasiado.

No ha sido difícil. Pero no ha sido fácil. Vivimos una vida privilegiada aquí. (lo conocemos).  Sin embargo, todavía no ha sido fácil. Nuestra vida es aumentar aqui pero, realmente, no compró más que cosas. Pone un techo sobre nuestro cabezas, la comida sobre nuestra mesa y permitir las vacaciones en nuestro calendario. Pero no puede hacerme sentir como en mi hogar. No se puede compensar el hecho de que la mayoría de la gente que quiero y confío en que somos un continente de distancia. No se puede escuchar a mí cuando me siento triste. No se puede aprender un idioma nuevo para mí.

Todavía me siento como un extraño aquí (pero creo que podría vivir aquí el resto de mi vida y todavía siente como un extraño) y, sin embargo, me siento muy bien acogidos. Es una captura 22.  He hecho buenos amigos, se despidió de algunos de ellos, y luego hizo más. Me mudé aquí con una guagua (o bebe fuera de Chile) y una hija pequeña. Me mudé con mucha aprensión y nervios como cuerdas ensartadas banjo (ok, that I had to look up in Google translate!). Pero he ajustado. He enviado mis dos hijas a la escuela. Y he visto como han aprendido dos idiomas.  Fluidez. Y he visto a adaptarse, mejor de lo que hubiera pensado, a una cultura totalmente nueva.

He aprendido como de hacer las compras en el supermercado, las reglas de la carretera y la forma de hacer las cosas consumado. He tenido muchos golpes y contusiónes en mi viajes aqui, pero creo que he aprendido mucho sobre mí mismo y lo fuerte que puede ser en la cara de un desafío. He aprendido que hay cosas que nunca se utilizan para acá - la falta de servicio al cliente, el hecho de que no se puede manejar en una pista en cada momento y el tamaño de mi lavadora (muy pequenita). Pero también, he aprendido que algunas de las cosas que pensé que no podría vivir sin - platos de papel, un triturador de basura, una puerta de garaje - son todas las cosas que llegan a ser insignificante con el tiempo.

Soy mejor porque he mudado aquí. Mi familia es mejor por han mudado aquí.  Estamos prosperando cuando yo no sabía si se podría sobrevivir. Estamos contentos, estamos muy agradecidos y estamos viviendo neustra vida neuva.   Porque como empezamos nuestro tercer año en Chile, no sabemos si vamos a llegar a nuestro cuarto. Y no estamos listos para decir adiós... por el momento.

{ok - time for the English version...}

Two years ago we began a journey.  Not just a change in miles but a change in lifestyle.  A change in location, sure, but also a change in attitude.  A change in the way we lived our lives and how we interacted with the world.  We started a new life, as a family, in a place outside of our comfort zone and expected it to be hard.  And then a bit easier.  And then to become our normal.  And it has.  It has been two years and at times it still seems like just yesterday.

Sometimes, I look back and it stills seems like we were sitting in our house in California, talking about whether this would be what was best for us, or if it would throw everything out of our control.  (Yes, it would).  We were sitting in California, surrounded by great friends, but felt so alone.  Because the decision to move over 6000 miles from family and friends, was ours alone.  No one could decide for us if it would be best to pick it all up and start all over.  We weren't moving across the country, but across an entire hemisphere.  It was a lot to take in.  There were lists.  There were pro's and con's.  There were sleepless nights.  But in the end, as you all know, we made the choice to move.  We turned our lives inside out and upside down.  There were so many positive reasons to do so and the only negatives we could find were our own fears seeping through.  In the end we decided that the pro's outweighed the con's.  We wanted to move so that our children could experience living in the world.  It was time for both of my daughters to get a feel for a life outside of the U.S.  A life outside of the privilege they would have grown up with in California. It was time for me to remember what it was like too.

I hasn't been hard.  But it hasn't been easy.  I know I live a privileged life here.  But it still hasn't been easy.  Money really doesn't buy you more than things. It puts a roof over my head, food on my table and vacations on my calendar.  But it can't make me feel at home.   It cannot compensate for the fact that the majority of the people I love and count on are a continent away.  It cannot listen to me when I am feeling sad.  It cannot learn a new language for me.

I still  feel like an outsider here (but I think I could live here for the rest of my life and still feel like an outsider) and yet, I feel very welcomed.  It's a catch 22.  I have made good friends, said goodbye to some of them, and then made a few more.  I moved down here with a baby and a toddler.  I moved with a lot of apprehension and nerves strung like banjo strings.  But I have adjusted.  I have sent both of my progeny off to school.  And I have watched as they learned two languages.  Fluently.  And I have watched them adapt, better than I would have ever thought, to a whole new culture.

I have learned the ins and outs of grocery shopping, the rules of the road, and how to get things accomplished.  I have had a lot of bumps and bruises along the way, but I think I have learned a lot about myself and how strong I can be in the face of a challenge.  I have learned that there are things I will never get used to here - the lack of customer service, the fact that no one can drive in one lane at any given time and the size of my washing machine (very small).  But I have also learned that some of the things that I thought I couldn't live without - paper plates, a garbage disposal, a garage door - are all things that become insignificant with time.

I am better because I have moved here.  My family is better for having moved here.  We are thriving when I didn't know if we could even survive.  We are happy, we are grateful and we are soaking it all in.  Because as we begin our third year in Chile, we don't know if we will make it to our fourth.  And we aren't ready to say goodbye just yet.



Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Buchupureo

Months ago we made plans to reprise our Harvest Experience at Casas del Bosque.  But, due to the late harvest they are experiencing in certain regions, we had to cancel our plans.  It was too bad because we had a lot of fun participating last year.  And I really wanted a few days out of the house doing something different.  I felt like we had fallen into a rut these past couple of weeks - a fun rut, but still it was getting routine.  So, I was determined to do something different and now that we had an open weekend, I had the opportunity.  I still had a few days to plan.  A few days is like eternity to me when planning vacation...

I scoured the internet for places we could go.  I narrowed it down to beach locations pretty quickly because this was the last chance we would probably have of getting to the beach without having to bring our parkas.  But that still leaves a lot (LOT) of ground to cover as the entire country of Chile is bordered by the Pacific Ocean.  That is 2600 miles of beaches.  I narrowed it further by the fact that we wanted to drive and not fly.  More manageable but that still leaves us with about 300 miles of beaches north of Santiago and 300 miles south.  Still more small towns than I could research things to do and places to stay in such a short time.

And then I remembered a coworker of B's mentioned a place in the Bio-Bio region.  That is in region VIII and about 300 miles south of us here in Santiago.  He, and his now wife, stayed in this great little town on the coast, in a boutique hotel run by a couple from California.  I found the email B had forwarded me when information came across his computer a couple of months ago.  I quickly clicked the link and was transported to my next vacation.  Simple as that; my search was over.

I made reservations (thankfully they had 1 spot left), looked up local sightseeing spots and packed the kids and I up for the 3 day "vacation".  (B does his own packing).

Friday morning we ate a leisurely breakfast.  MadHatter was a bit confused as to why we didn't wake her up and take her to the airport in her jammies to start our vacation.  It is our usual M.O. so I can see how she was confused.  I told her that this time we were driving and that we could leave any time we wanted.  Her reply:

"You said we were going on vacation, Mama.  If there is no airplane, there is no vacation".  Boy do we have some work to do on taking her back to reality...

Heading down the hill so we can leave all of this city life behind...and the smog is so present already.  The Andes are supposed to be behind all of those buildings.
MadHatter was happy to be on our way...even if we didn't get to fly.
The drive was slow and easy.  I had packed a picnic lunch that we ate at a gas station rest stop on our way (not as bad as it sounds).  We sat under an umbrella at a small table and just enjoyed stretching our legs after 3 hours in the car.  After a whole bunch of Fluffernutter sandwiches, some fruit, some chips and a bit of postre (dessert) we were back in the car.  Stinkerbell didn't make it 5 minutes until she was snoring soundly.  MadHatter was back in her own LeapPad world as soon as the seat belt was buckled (don't judge...it was 6 hours in the car...)  Add earphones and B and I had 3 hours of quiet driving, talking and just relaxing.  Yep, B and I actually got to talk!

We finally pulled off of Ruta 5 and started winding our way through the small towns that would take us to the coast and our final destination.  It took about an hour but no one seemed to mind.  We were all awake, earphoneless and enjoying the drive.  Even the kids were in awe of the scenery outside of their windows.  We had somehow driven from country side into the forest.  Literally.  We were surrounded by trees and logging trucks.  And that was just before we hit the valley on the other side and saw our first glimpses of the beach.

Chile sure can WOW you in the scenery department.

We arrived, did a quick look around the hotel and headed straight for the beach.  It was almost dinner time so we didn't stay long.  The beach was black sand (a first for the girls), windy and the water was cold and the sun was just about to set.  So we stayed just long enough for MadHatter and B to prove they were crazy by putting their feet in the ocean.  It couldn't have been more than about 55 degrees.  Beautiful, but cold.










 

She wasn't so sure once she got to the edge...
But she did it!
And then proceeded to scold her Papa for getting her jeans wet :)

My Beach boy really wanted to get in.  But it was too cold even for him.  And that is saying something.
Day one - success.  And time for a pisco and time on the back patio before dinner.
We woke up to these views from our room the next morning...
Our bedroom view
Sitting room...

We locked up and worked our way down the property to breakfast that was waiting.  It is a fabulous layout.  There are only three "rooms" which are actually separate small houses.  Each has one or two bedrooms, a sitting room, a bathroom and at least one patio.  We were situated at the very top which meant unobstructed views of the ocean and a lot of privacy.  It was absolutely perfect.





Entering the main lobby/bar/restaurant/patios
The restaurant.
 I loved that their liquor license was written on a piece of slate and posted on one of their patio's out front.



 And I fell in love with this cactus!  These "flowers" were blooming everywhere and made me smile each time I saw them.  Finally, a flower I may not be able to kill in a week.  It may take me a couple of months...



It just so happened that we had arrived just in time for the beach clean up.  Since we were heading back to the beach for a stroll after breakfast the girls each grabbed a bag to hold their finds.  It wasn't long before one became the trash bag and one became the shell bag but at least they let us have one for trash.


This time we all put our feet in the ocean (Stinkerbell and I very reluctantly)...I was right - it made my feet numb it was so cold.  But it was a beautiful day and we all had fun cleaning up, throwing sand and running from the waves.  Some of us even looked like we did some yoga...
 


Stinkerbell cleaned for a bit, collected shells and then did what looked like yoga for about 5 minutes...






A dried seaweed heart.
A boat that is dry docked...until tonight.
 
 We found a lot more than just trash.  There were crab claws, and oysters, and clams, Oh My!




And MadHatter even touched them!  Which she has never done before.




 The waves in Buchupureo are world renowned.  They are huge, crash close to the shore and come in sets that never seems to end.  Surfers from all over the world come to play in these waters as they are arguably the best in Chile.  I just loved listening to them crash while we slept.

The ledge on the left is about 12 feet high.  And every
once in awhile the waves would crash right
up and over the berm.

The girls were rightfully cautious.  They got close
but not too close.  Which was great for me
because those waves and that current
were forceful.




 B kept staring at the waves wistfully.  I think he really wanted to get in, but the water really was just too cold.  Even with a wetsuit he would have been cold.  But we did all get our feet wet again...







 We were done playing for now.  And the clean up was winding down so we took our trash and grabbed our thank you sandwich and headed to our next destination.  The Lobería.


 In Cobquecura, a town about a 5 minute drive from where we were staying, is a national treasure.  It was declared a Natural Sanctuary in 1992 because the four rock formation is home to no less than 2000 sea lions at an given time.  By giving it this status, the government officially ended the slaughter of these baby seals by hunters who sold their thin skins and fine fur.  And at the pups meat.  The four large rocks sit about 150 feet off shore and are covered on virtually every inch by the sea lions.  The girls loved the sound of them and though they wished we could get closer, they understood why we could not.

A small, open air church on the beach in Cobquecura.  Just out of the picture on the right is the sea lion rock.



 We had worked up an appetite on the beaches that morning so we headed of to lunch.  At this beautiful little hole in the wall named La Esquina (the corner).  Quaint, lovely and quite good food!




The swing in back was the girls favorite spot.





Some ice cream for desert as we walk through town.  The town of Cobquecura (and Buchupureo) were devastated by the 2010 earthquake and the resulting Tsunami.  A lot of rebuilding has been done in the three years since, but you can still see damage on the streets.  You can also see the fear in people's voices when they talk about that day.  As a side note, this is also where the world's worst earthquake happened in 1960.



The streets were not earthquake damaged (they are paving them since they have always been dirt) but you can see some of the houses that crumbled during the earthquake on the left.


 We made it back to our hotel just in time to meet our horses coming up the beach for our afternoon ride.  The girls are enamored with horses and we ride any time we can.  This was their first beach ride and they loved it.  MadHatter would have liked her own horse, but she loved Grillo (cricket in english).  Stinkerbell and I rode Lluvia (rain) and our instructor was on Chocolate (do I need to translate?).  
We rode to the end of the beach and climbed.  High.  And get a whole new view of the beach.










 A long day.  But so much fun.  We went back to the hotel and the girls couldn't wait to tell the daughters of the owner's about their day.  They sat and colored together - and MadHatter drew all that she saw that day...
Her interpretation of her sightseeing.

 We turned in shortly after dinner.  We were beat.  And had a long drive home the next morning.  But not until we made one more stop...Iglesia de Piedra.  This natural rock formation is a national monument and opens up on the left hand side into a giant hollow room and has a narrow passageway on the right side.  Thought to be used by the native's as a ceremonial spot centuries ago it has turned into a spot for visitors and locals alike to leave messages and trinkets for their loved ones that have passed on.




 And finally, we were on our way home.  It was a weekend that we will never forget.  And one that left us feeling peaceful...


And exhausted...


 Exactly what I had been hoping for!