I needn't have worried. We talked back and forth for a few days and set it all up. We would trade places on Friday afternoon and swap back on Sunday. A change of scenery and pace for both of us. She wanted a backyard, a BBQ and some downtime in the sunshine. B and I were looking to see Valparaiso, Viña del Mar and the surrounding beach towns.
This past weekend we both did just that. And I think we may set it up to do again before they head back home to Denmark. We all had such a good time and we didn't see nearly everything we wanted to. And being in the comfort of a home, instead of a hotel, makes it so much more relaxing. And with views like this for breakfast, who can complain...
After breakfast we loaded the car and headed to Valparaiso (about a 10 minute drive down the coast). I had been wanting to visit since we arrived in Chile but we had never made the time. It always happens that the things you want to see that are the easiest to get to are the ones you put off. Because you can do them anytime. And then, all of a sudden, you are moved and you never got there.
I had heard a lot of mixed reviews on the city. Some say it is dirty and run down and not worth the amount of walking and others are just completely enchanted by the history. Seeing as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site I chose to believe that character and the sites would win out. And I was right.
Valparaiso was established in 1544, and became the first port in the nation. And, with the road to Santiago finished by the end of the century, more and more people came to settle in this beautiful seaside town. Unfortunately, the earthquake of 1730 destroyed much of the village. Fortunately, it forced the inhabitants to build up into the hillsides thus creating the city's most distinguishing characteristic - it's homes, churches and buildings all built seemingly willy nilly into the mountainsides, going ever higher up. Straight up.
But I digress...
In 1810, Chile won it's independence from Spain and in doing so ended their monopoly on trade. For the first time Chile experienced free trade. With their new found freedom Chile began relations with Europe and the United States and Valparaiso became the most important port on the Pacific coast. Trade is what put them on the map (literally) but by the mid 1840's the city was a hot spot for immigrants from England, France, Germany and the U.S. helping it become not only an important port, but also a cosmopolitan city. And for 100 years, this little port city thrived and grew and became important in the history of its country. Heck, the continent. And even in some one particular case, the world . Valpo boasts the oldest Stock Exchange in Latin America, the continents first volunteer fire department, the first public library in Chile and the longest continuously published Spanish language newspaper in the world. Sadly, its golden age was cut short in 1914 with the opening of the Panama Canal. The city was no longer on the great commercial route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and it's importance in the world of shipping declined. And with it, so did its standing in its own country. It has staged a comeback in recent years, and though it never has gotten back to its position as the number one port in South America, it remains one of the most vibrant centers of Chilean culture.
But enough with the history lesson. What does it really look like from an outsider/insiders point of view...
Hilly. Yep, to get anywhere you have to climb one of the 45 hills and then you probably have to go back down to the port and walk up again if you want to get to a different one. It is a lot of stairs, curvy steep roads and stunning views the whole way. There are 8 functioning (18 non-functioning) ascensores or cable car elevators that do help out with the climbing but you still have to get to them and that means climbing. The ascensores were all built between 1883 and 1916, they are a bit primitive but oh so much fun to ride.
Colorful. The whole town is very bohemian and charming. It is painted from head to toe in a bit of every color in the rainbow. The graffiti here deserves its own post (next) but let's me just tell you that it is what makes this town unique. This isn't merely tagging done by teenage boys with nothing better to do, it is art. Pure, uninhibited art. And it covers every conceivable surface.
Gritty. Mind you, I don't mean dirty, I mean gritty. The city itself is fairly clean and we didn't encounter any trash in the streets. What we did see was history - original walls and doors in homes, old fishing boats docked at the pier, worn away paint on the stairs from thousands of feet treading on them daily. It all gives the city its character. It gives it its grit.
Historical. I think I gave you enough of a history lesson above so I won't write more on that. But I loved seeing it all in person.
We didn't cover even half of what we wanted to see. But we had promised the girls some pool time at the apartment so about sunset we headed back. It was a great day and I suggest if you are ever in the area, you take a day or two and get to know Valparaiso.
This past weekend we both did just that. And I think we may set it up to do again before they head back home to Denmark. We all had such a good time and we didn't see nearly everything we wanted to. And being in the comfort of a home, instead of a hotel, makes it so much more relaxing. And with views like this for breakfast, who can complain...
After breakfast we loaded the car and headed to Valparaiso (about a 10 minute drive down the coast). I had been wanting to visit since we arrived in Chile but we had never made the time. It always happens that the things you want to see that are the easiest to get to are the ones you put off. Because you can do them anytime. And then, all of a sudden, you are moved and you never got there.
I had heard a lot of mixed reviews on the city. Some say it is dirty and run down and not worth the amount of walking and others are just completely enchanted by the history. Seeing as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site I chose to believe that character and the sites would win out. And I was right.
Valparaiso was established in 1544, and became the first port in the nation. And, with the road to Santiago finished by the end of the century, more and more people came to settle in this beautiful seaside town. Unfortunately, the earthquake of 1730 destroyed much of the village. Fortunately, it forced the inhabitants to build up into the hillsides thus creating the city's most distinguishing characteristic - it's homes, churches and buildings all built seemingly willy nilly into the mountainsides, going ever higher up. Straight up.
But I digress...
In 1810, Chile won it's independence from Spain and in doing so ended their monopoly on trade. For the first time Chile experienced free trade. With their new found freedom Chile began relations with Europe and the United States and Valparaiso became the most important port on the Pacific coast. Trade is what put them on the map (literally) but by the mid 1840's the city was a hot spot for immigrants from England, France, Germany and the U.S. helping it become not only an important port, but also a cosmopolitan city. And for 100 years, this little port city thrived and grew and became important in the history of its country. Heck, the continent. And even in some one particular case, the world . Valpo boasts the oldest Stock Exchange in Latin America, the continents first volunteer fire department, the first public library in Chile and the longest continuously published Spanish language newspaper in the world. Sadly, its golden age was cut short in 1914 with the opening of the Panama Canal. The city was no longer on the great commercial route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and it's importance in the world of shipping declined. And with it, so did its standing in its own country. It has staged a comeback in recent years, and though it never has gotten back to its position as the number one port in South America, it remains one of the most vibrant centers of Chilean culture.
But enough with the history lesson. What does it really look like from an outsider/insiders point of view...
Hilly. Yep, to get anywhere you have to climb one of the 45 hills and then you probably have to go back down to the port and walk up again if you want to get to a different one. It is a lot of stairs, curvy steep roads and stunning views the whole way. There are 8 functioning (18 non-functioning) ascensores or cable car elevators that do help out with the climbing but you still have to get to them and that means climbing. The ascensores were all built between 1883 and 1916, they are a bit primitive but oh so much fun to ride.
Colorful. The whole town is very bohemian and charming. It is painted from head to toe in a bit of every color in the rainbow. The graffiti here deserves its own post (next) but let's me just tell you that it is what makes this town unique. This isn't merely tagging done by teenage boys with nothing better to do, it is art. Pure, uninhibited art. And it covers every conceivable surface.
Gritty. Mind you, I don't mean dirty, I mean gritty. The city itself is fairly clean and we didn't encounter any trash in the streets. What we did see was history - original walls and doors in homes, old fishing boats docked at the pier, worn away paint on the stairs from thousands of feet treading on them daily. It all gives the city its character. It gives it its grit.
Historical. I think I gave you enough of a history lesson above so I won't write more on that. But I loved seeing it all in person.
We didn't cover even half of what we wanted to see. But we had promised the girls some pool time at the apartment so about sunset we headed back. It was a great day and I suggest if you are ever in the area, you take a day or two and get to know Valparaiso.
 |
| One of the 8 running ascensores. Although, ironically, this one was closed for maintenence. So we had to walk the long way - and all the way up this hill... |
 |
The Naval Museum at the top of that hill. |
 |
| The largest Zumba class I have ever witnessed. They shut down a square and let everyone dance! |
 |
| Even Stinkerbell Zumba'd. |
Up and down. Up and down. I lost count as to how many steps we climbed.
To the utter delight of the girls we stumbled upon this two story slide outside of the Ascensor Reina Victoria. Of course they had to take more than a couple of turns each. And B and I were just fine with that as it allowed us to take a rest.
We visited the Cemeteries. MadHatter loves them and they really are quite interesting. No pictures inside were allowed though.
And our final stop of the day was Nobel Prize winner Pablo Neruda's home La Sebastiana.
We headed back to the Apartment and it's spectacular views after a quick dinner. And then headed off to the pool with the girls to relax. We had another big day ahead of us tomorrow...
No comments:
Post a Comment